“Sarmy . . . That place. You know what I’m talking about.” That’s how I usually started conversations about our weekend trip to Sarmizegetusa, the ancient capital of Dacia before the Romans invaded – hidden from modern civilizations, buried in the mountains, only recently found. One of only six UNESCO World Heritage sites in Romania,… Read More Ancient Dacia and Romania’s Stonehenge – Sarmizegetusa, Romania
As we approached the castle in our dusty station wagon, we were put off by the factories, smoke stacks and large quarry that enveloped this historic oasis. This was no Burg Eltz, tucked between forested hills on a remote outpost. Then, as we walked toward the gates, I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. To… Read More A castle fit for the movies – Corvin Castle, Romania
Pop. . . pop, pop. I lifted my head and listened closely. Gunfire? Was someone prepping their BB gun to deter crows and pests from their vegetable patch? Unlikely, but it sure sounded like it. Slowly lifting my eyes over the fence I saw a man with a very long rod beating his vast area… Read More Gunshots, and other surprising signs of spring
I thought they were jars of oil. Gold and amber, glistening in the sun on roadside stands, I didn’t cross my mind that those stacks of jars were honey. Then we were gifted several jars shortly after our arrival. I also started noticing boxes of hives in backyards, in fields, on trailers – everywhere. When we… Read More Romania’s gold
According to the most reputable legends, Hercules stopped in the Cerna Valley in southwest Romania to bathe in the hot springs and take a much-needed vacation from his exploits. During the Roman period in Dacia, Baile Herculane was a leisure spa town renowned throughout the Empire. Today, vestiges of its 19th century glory days… Read More Hercule’s Bath – Baile Herculane, Romania
One of the most traditional events around Christmastime in Romania is the slaughtering of the pig. Ask nearly any Romanian what Christmas means to them and the killing of the pig, a family affair, is almost always mentioned. Santa Claus and presents are high at the top of the list, the birth of Jesus might be… Read More The Christmas Pig
One foggy afternoon in October we turned off the main road that skirts the southern Carpathians and headed straight into the foothills. Signs directed us to the UNESCO World Heritage Horezu Monastery. Several kilometers of road dead-ended at a large gate and medieval stone walls. The monastery and surrounding buildings on the hillside were… Read More Monastical Seclusion – Horezu, Romania
Every Saturday, as pink tints the clouds and the sun climbs above the horizon, horse-drawn carts carrying livestock make their way to an open field on the edge of town. Elderly couples bundle up for the walk which they make every week to reacquaint themselves with family and friends who are also expected to be… Read More The Saturday livestock market, a timeless affair – Caracal, Romania
Along Romania’s northern border, rolling hills and thick forests clothe the landscape that flows into Ukraine. This is the region made famous in William Blackers Along the Enchanted Way, recalling a medieval way of live that still exists but is quickly evaporating into the morning fog. One notable architectural feature of this region is the wooden church… Read More The Wooden Churches of Maramureș, Romania
Memories of my childhood include horrendously glorious adventures walking up castle stairs with no guardrail or peeking over the ledge of an inadequate barrier to a cavernous moat many feet below. I don’t remember my parents hollering “Stand back!” or “Don’t get so close!” Being the responsible parents they are, I’m sure they did. We… Read More Prejmer Fortified Church, Romania – survivor of the marauding centuries
will travel with kids 