Nestled in a wide valley in south, central Romania, Craiova surprises. One of the pleasures of settling in one place for a year is being able to observe change. One of those changes in Oltenia is the effort to develop Craiova’s downtown pedestrian district. Last year we strolled the downtown and saw ramshackle, historic facades being consumed by the elements; a handful of cafes; litter; shuttered shops. This spring we returned to explore and found remodeled buildings, murals, restaurants with outdoor seating lining the cobblestones, uniform signage on streets and plenty of litter bins. This is one place in Oltenia that is certainly on the rise, a place we’d now return to again and again. Unfortunately, we’re moving, so more visits are not in our future. But we’ll add Craiova to our list of ‘places to visit’ in Oltenia when newcomers or visitors ask for the local scoop.